DIY installation guide
Planning a COLORBOND® steel fence? Read this first
A good fence comes down to planning: where it sits, how the ground holds it, how it deals with a slope, and getting the right materials in the first load. Here’s what to think about before you build — and how to get the right materials from NKSM.
This is a general guide. Figures like footing depth and post spacing are typical starting points — the right numbers for your job depend on the fence height, your soil, wind exposure and council rules. Always follow BlueScope’s COLORBOND® steel installation instructions for your product and check your local requirements before you build.
The parts of a fence
A COLORBOND® steel fence is a simple kit of parts. Knowing what each one does makes ordering — and building — a lot easier.
- 1 Post caps. Seal the top of each post against water and corrosion.
- 2 Channel posts. The uprights, concreted into the ground at ~2.4 m centres.
- 3 Top rail. Ties the posts together and holds the sheets at the top.
- 4 Infill sheets. The COLORBOND® steel panels that fill the bay.
- 5 Bottom rail. Supports the base of the sheets above ground.
- 6 Timber sleeper. Optional timber base that lifts steel off the dirt and tidies uneven ground.
- 7 Footings. Concrete that locks each post in place.
We stock every part in this diagram. Browse the full fencing range →
Before you start
Most fence problems are baked in before the first sheet goes up. A bit of planning here saves a lot of grief later.
Set-out & boundaries
Confirm exactly where the boundary runs before you dig. Run a string line end to end so posts sit straight, and talk to your neighbour early — a dividing fence is usually a shared cost under Victorian fencing law.
Stable, compacted ground
A fence is only as solid as what holds it up. Set posts into firm, well-compacted ground and clear loose rock, roots and fill from each hole. Soft or recently-filled ground may need deeper footings.
Post spacing & footings
As a general guide posts sit at roughly 2.4 m centres, concreted into footings about 450–600 mm deep for a standard 1.8 m fence. Taller fences, sandy soil or exposed sites call for deeper, wider footings.
Post caps
Always cap your posts. Open posts let water sit inside and corrode them from the inside out — a cheap cap is the single easiest thing you can do to add years to the fence.
Council & boundary rules
Most standard dividing fences up to 2 m don’t need a permit, but front fences, pool-safety fences and anything taller can. Check with your council before you build — rules vary between municipalities.
Clearances & services
Before you dig, find out what’s underground. A free Dial Before You Dig enquiry shows gas, power, water and comms lines so a post hole doesn’t turn into an emergency.
Dealing with sloping ground
Few blocks are perfectly flat. There are three common ways to follow a slope — the right one depends on how steep the fall is and the look you want.
Raking
The rails and sheets are angled to follow the ground while posts stay vertical. Gives the cleanest line on a steady, even slope. Sheets are cut on the angle to match.
Stepping
Panels stay level and step down the slope, so the top line is a series of steps. No angled cuts, but it leaves a triangular gap under each panel that a sleeper can close off.
Timber sleeper
Panels stay square and a timber sleeper fills the gap to the ground. Keeps steel up out of the dirt, handles uneven ground, and gives a neat finish along the bottom.
As a rough guide, gentle falls suit raking, sharper or stepped ground suits stepping, and a sleeper tidies up almost anything. Tell us about your block and we’ll help you pick the approach and the materials.
Wind & site conditions
A fence is a big sail. The taller it is and the more exposed the site, the more the wind tries to push it over — and that load goes straight into your posts and footings.
Melbourne and South-East Victoria sit in Australia’s lowest wind region, so the cyclone-rated detailing you’ll see for far-north Queensland isn’t needed here. But local exposure still matters: a fence on an open ridge, a corner block, or one that catches a wind funnel between houses works harder than one tucked among buildings.
For exposed or taller runs, the usual answer is deeper, wider footings and sometimes closer post spacing. When in doubt, beef up the footings — it’s cheap insurance.
Things that increase wind load
- Taller fences (2.0 m+ vs a standard 1.8 m)
- Open, exposed blocks — ridgelines, acreage, new estates
- Corner and front fences with nothing upwind
- Solid infill with no gaps for wind to pass through
Tools & materials
Round up everything before you start so the job doesn’t stall halfway through. We supply the materials — bring this list in or send it through.
Materials (we supply)
- COLORBOND® steel infill sheets
- Channel posts
- Top & bottom rails
- Post caps
- Tek screws / fixings
- Timber sleepers (for uneven ground)
- Matching gate kit (if needed)
Tools (have on hand)
- Post-hole digger or auger
- String line & pegs
- Spirit level (and a long straightedge)
- Tape measure & marker
- Tin snips or a nibbler for cutting sheets
- Cordless drill with tek/hex driver
- Rapid-set or post-mix concrete & a wheelbarrow
- Gloves, eye and ear protection
How much will I need?
Use our fence calculator for a rough materials estimate and a to-scale plan of your fence — by length, height, gates, and as many sides as your yard has. Send it through and we’ll confirm the exact list, give you a price, and have most of it ready for same-day pickup from our Hallam yard.
Frequently asked questions
How hard is it to install a COLORBOND® steel fence myself?
It’s well within reach for a confident DIYer. The system is designed to bolt together — posts, rails, then the infill sheets slot in. The parts that take the most care are setting the posts plumb and at the right spacing, and getting the footings solid. Most people find a second pair of hands and a weekend gets a standard run done.
How deep should the fence post footings be?
As a general rule of thumb, footings for a standard 1.8 m fence are around 450–600 mm deep and concreted in. Taller fences, exposed or windy sites, and soft or sandy soil need deeper and wider footings. Always check the installation instructions for your specific product and your local conditions — when in doubt, go deeper.
How far apart do the posts go?
Posts typically sit at about 2.4 m centres, which matches the standard sheet and rail lengths. Keeping them evenly spaced and plumb is what gives the finished fence its straight, clean line, so take your time on the set-out.
Do I need council approval for a fence?
Often not for a standard dividing fence up to about 2 m, but it depends on your council, the fence height, and whether it’s a front, corner or pool fence. Pool-safety fencing has its own strict rules. Always confirm with your local council before you start — requirements vary.
How do I handle a sloping block?
There are three common approaches — raking (angling the sheets to follow the slope), stepping the panels down, or keeping panels level and filling the gap underneath with a timber sleeper. Which one suits depends on how steep the fall is and the look you’re after. We can talk it through and work out the materials for your run.
Can you cut the steel to size?
Yes — we can cut steel to size onsite at our Hallam yard, which saves you doing it in the driveway with tin snips. Bring your measurements in and we’ll sort out the cuts with your order.
Still have a question? Get in touch — we're happy to help.
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